Winegrowers Supplies - Vine training - the Mosel Loop system
Photograph taken in April, in Germany.
Until end of May you leave the vines to grow, because the shoots can break off easily.
Later you choose four of the long shoots nearest to the stake, when they are about a metre long.
Tie those loosely around the stake, with natural raffia or a plastic equivalent.
Continue to do that higher up the stake as the shoots grow taller.
The shoots growing from around the bow must be left to grow until they have have flower clusters (two or three) and several leaves further on.
Eventually (sometime in July) you snip off the ends of these shoots leaving two (or three) leaves beyond the last flower cluster.
Wait until as late as possible, since afterwards they will produce strong side-shoots, which are of no use.
Allow the four main shoots to grow, even if they are more than a metre above the top of the stake.
In August, as late as possible, you snip off the ends of these four main shoots leaving about 30 cm above the top of the stake.
You leave this as late as possible as afterwards they will produce strong side-shoots, which do not contribute to ripening the berries.
In the winter, March is the best time, you cut off the bows, leaving the four long canes near to the stake.
In April (when the sap is flowing) you choose two of these canes, bend them and form the new bows.
After you've tied down the two bows successfully, you cut off the other two canes;
don't cut until after the bows are tied down, as the canes can snap, so you may need to use the others.
When you are skilled at bowing you can bend and tie down the bows so that they are in an East-West direction, hence allowing maximum sunlight on the leaves during the growing season.